Short answer: an appliqué file sews a placement line (showing where the fabric goes), stops, sews a tack-down run to hold the fabric, stops again so the operator can trim the excess, then sews a satin cover over the raw edge. Draw the outline once with the Appliqué tool and EasyDigitizer builds all three steps and both stops. Set the cover width at about 2.5–4 mm so it covers the trimmed edge with a little to spare.
Appliqué replaces a large stitched fill with a piece of fabric, such as twill, felt or a contrasting cotton, held down by a satin border. It's the standard for varsity letters, big jacket backs and kids' designs: far fewer stitches, softer to wear, and a look a fill can't match.
The three steps
| Step | What sews | Then |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Placement | A running line around the shape (2.5 mm stitches) | Stop: lay the fabric over the line |
| 2. Tack-down | A run just inside the outline (0.3 mm in, 2 mm stitches) | Stop: trim the excess fabric close to the run |
| 3. Cover | A satin along every edge, with zigzag underlay | Continue with the rest of the design |
The stops appear as extra colour stops on the same thread, each with a trim first. Your machine stops, and you do the fabric work at each one. The production worksheet lists them, so the operator knows what to expect.
Drawing an appliqué (A)
- Pick Appliqué (A).
- Click around the outline of the fabric piece. Right-click for curves.
- Press Enter.
Draw on the outer edge of the artwork shape. The cover satin is centred on that line, so half its width falls on the appliqué fabric and half on the garment, sealing the raw edge.
Cover settings
In Properties, the appliqué's Cover satin section has:
- Width: 2.5–4 mm suits most work. Go wider (4–5 mm) on fabrics that fray, like cotton, and on big jacket-back letters.
- Spacing: around 0.40 mm. Slightly tighter (0.36–0.38) gives a solid edge on high-contrast fabric.
- Density follows column width and Auto-split over, the same as any satin.
Corner treatment applies too. Chamfer sharp points on letters like A, M and W so the cover doesn't pile up.
Choosing appliqué fabric
- Twill: the classic for varsity and team lettering. It trims cleanly and doesn't fray much.
- Felt: no fraying at all, so a light cover is enough.
- Cotton prints: fray, so use a wider, denser cover.
- Heat-seal backed fabric: stays flat during sewing and makes trimming easier.
Trimming tips
- Trim close to the tack-down, about 1–2 mm, with curved appliqué scissors.
- Don't cut the tack-down stitches.
- On a multi-head machine, pre-cut appliqué pieces to shape and skip the placement step's trim.
Combining appliqué with stitching
Appliqué pieces usually sit under other parts of the design:
- Sequence appliqués first, before the stitched details on top.
- Put inner details (stitched lettering on a twill shape, a running outline inside the cover) after the cover.
- For multi-layer appliqué (a letter on a letter), sew the bottom piece's full sequence before starting the top one.
Frequently asked questions
What is a placement line in appliqué?
A running stitch that marks where to lay the appliqué fabric. The machine sews it and then stops.
What is a tack-down stitch?
A running or light zigzag stitch that holds the appliqué fabric in place before trimming and covering.
How wide should an appliqué cover stitch be?
About 2.5–4 mm for most fabrics, wider for fabrics that fray.
Why does my appliqué edge show frayed threads?
The cover is too narrow or too open, or the fabric was trimmed too far from the tack-down. Widen the cover, tighten its spacing slightly, or trim closer.