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Machine troubleshooter

Ricoma troubleshooting

Fix Ricoma embroidery errors fast - main axis not at 100, no needle, CHT2 241/256/257 codes, false thread breaks, trimmer faults, birdnests and oiling.

  • Commercial & home
  • Made in USA
  • Files: DST (Ricoma/Tajima DST is the format Ricoma tells customers to save from Chroma)

Control panel: EM-1010, TC, MT: 7S colour touch panel; SWD and newer MT: 8S touch panel; Creator, Swift, Marquee: 10.1-inch HD touch panel; CHT2/CHS multi-head: touch panel with numbered errors

Short answer

Most Ricoma stoppages clear once three things are right: the main shaft is parked at exactly 100 degrees, every take-up lever sits at the same height, and the head is locked on a real needle number (not "0" or "?"). The message you will see most is Main axis not at 100 (often paired with No needle), usually after a birdnest or a needle strike on the hoop. Thread problems are almost always threading, needle orientation or bobbin tension, not the sensor.

Ricoma model families

Find your machine to see what it's known for, then jump to its error codes and fixes.

EM-1010 (EM Series 10-needle)

Type
Single-head, 10 needles, entry/home-business machine
Years
current
Field
see the EM-1010 manual for hoop sizes
Max speed
not stated in the sources used here; check the spec sheet
Panel
7S colour touch panel
Formats
DST

Ricoma's best-selling starter machine. Typical calls are "Hook not in position" after a failed trim, "Main axis / No needle" after a birdnest, and an X sensor that is dirty or misaligned causing the pantograph to drive to one side and grind. The degree wheel on this model is at the back of the machine.

Error codes EM-1010 Operation Manual page (Ricoma support)

single-head10-needlecapbeginner

Creator (10-needle)

Type
Single-head, 10 needles, crafter/home business
Years
current
Field
see the Creator resources page
Max speed
not stated in the sources used here
Panel
10.1-inch HD touch panel with Wi-Fi
Formats
DST

Successor-style machine to the EM-1010. Ricoma publishes Creator-specific fixes for No needle, Color change timeout with grinding, Trim not in position, false thread breaks and an X sensor grinding check.

Error codes Creator Resources (Ricoma support)

single-head10-needlewificap

TC-1501 / TC series (RCM-1501TC-7S, RCM-1201TC-7S)

Type
Single-head, 15 needles (12 on 1201)
Years
older RCM-1501TC-7S naming and current TC-1501
Field
see the TC-1501-7S resources page
Max speed
not stated in the sources used here
Panel
7S touch panel
Formats
DST

The workhorse single-head. The 7S operation manual has a system error list (spindle, color change, stitch detection, XY driver, trim position, frame limits). Common field issues are Color change timeout from a dropped take-up lever, false thread breaks from a dusty encoder wheel, and blade build-up stopping trims.

Error codes TC-1501-7S Resources (Ricoma support)

single-head15-needlecaptubular

SWD-1501-8S

Type
Single-head, 15 needles
Years
current
Field
see the SWD-1501-8S resources page
Max speed
not stated in the sources used here
Panel
8S touch panel (emergency stop is at the bottom left of the panel)
Formats
DST

Shares most fixes with the TC: same oiling routine, same No needle procedure with the red knob, same false-thread-break checks.

Error codes SWD-1501-8S Resources (Ricoma support)

single-head15-needlecap

Swift / SwiftXL / Swift 2

Type
Single-head, 15 needles, commercial
Years
current
Field
Swift 2: 22 x 14.5 in (per Ricoma product page)
Max speed
Swift 2: 1,350 spm (per Ricoma product page)
Panel
10.1-inch touch panel
Formats
DST

The Swift 2 uses a magnetic encoder for thread-break detection and a pickerless sewing arm. Ricoma lists Swift-specific articles for Color change timeout, Trim not in position, false thread breaks and centering the head.

Error codes Swift Resources (Ricoma support)

single-head15-needlehigh-speedcap

MT series (MT-1501, MT-1502, MT-2003, 15 and 20 needle)

Type
Single and multi-head, 15 or 20 needles per head
Years
older MT-1501/1502 through current
Field
see the MT-1502 quick start manual for hoop sizes
Max speed
not stated in the sources used here
Panel
7S or 8S touch panel
Formats
DST

The MT quick start guide calls the main axis fault "error 100". On multi-heads, a needle-down-at-100 problem usually points to the needle-release solenoid on the left of the head. The degree wheel is on the left side of the machine.

Error codes MT 15 Needle Resources (Ricoma support)

multi-head15-needle20-needlecap

Marquee (15/20-needle, 1-3 heads)

Type
Single and multi-head, 15 or 20 needles
Years
current
Field
see Ricoma product pages
Max speed
Marquee 2: up to 1,350 spm (per Ricoma product page)
Panel
10.1-inch touch panel
Formats
DST

Newer large-field line. Ricoma has a Marquee-specific Color change time out article; most mechanical fixes follow the MT procedures.

Error codes see the Ricoma Help Center

multi-head20-needlehigh-speed

CHT2 / CHS multi-head (4 to 12 heads)

Type
Commercial multi-head, 15 needles per head
Years
current (CHT2 replaced the earlier CHT)
Field
see the CHT2 quick start manual
Max speed
not stated in the sources used here
Panel
touch panel with numbered errors (241, 256, 257)
Formats
DST

The only Ricoma line that shows numbered codes on screen. Trimming and hook faults are detected by one shared sensor under the machine, so a birdnest on one head stops all heads. Needle position is set with a wrench on the color change gear under the panel, not a red knob.

Error codes CHT2 Quick Start Manual, common errors (ManualsLib copy)

multi-head15-needlehigh-volumecap

Ricoma error codes 20

Type the code or words from the screen. Codes vary by model and software version — when in doubt, your machine's own manual wins.

CodeMessageWhat it meansWhat to doModelsSource
100Main axis not at 100 / Main axis errorThe main shaft did not stop at its 100-degree home angle, so the machine will not start. Common after a needle hits the hoop, a birdnest, shipping, or someone turning the degree wheel.Clear the message, make sure a needle number shows, then press the 100-degree key. If it repeats, power off and turn the degree wheel 2-3 full turns until the sight window/panel reads 100, check all take-up levers are level, power on and press the 100-degree key again.All (called "error 100" in the MT guide)MT-1502 quick start manual; Ricoma support "Main axis not at 100"
—Spindle is not at 100 degreeSame condition as above as listed in the 7S panel error table.Jog or hand-turn the shaft to 100 degrees.TC-1501/1201 7S, EM-1010RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual; EM-1010 owner's manual
—Spindle is not rotatedThe main motor got no drive: no signal or power to the spindle controller or motor, a failed controller/motor, or an unplugged encoder.Power off, check the main motor and controller cables are seated, then power on. If it persists the controller, motor or encoder needs a technician.TC 7S, EM-1010RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual; EM-1010 owner's manual
—Reverse rotation of spindleThe encoder A/B signals are swapped, so the machine thinks the shaft is turning backwards.This is a wiring fault, usually after a repair. Have a technician correct the encoder phase wiring.TC 7S, EM-1010RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—No needle / Needle error (needle shows 0 or ?)The head is parked between two needle positions, so the machine cannot tell which needle is working. Often from shipping, a power dip during a color change, or bumping the color change knob.Press ESC/OK. Watch the needle indicator and slowly turn the red color change knob on the right of the head until it shows a whole number (1-10, 1-15 or 1-20). Then press the 100-degree key.EM-1010, Creator, TC, SWD, MT, SwiftRicoma support "No needle TC/SWD/MT", "MT: No Needle Error"; MT-1502 quick start manual
241Needle ErrorCHT2 version of No needle: no needle is over the working position.Bring the main axis to 100 and check all take-up levers on every head are level. Then use an open-end wrench on the color change gear under the panel and turn slowly until a needle number 1-15 appears. Press the 100-degree button to test.CHT2, CHSRicoma support "CHT/CHS: No Needle / 241 Needle Error"
256Hook ErrorOne head's hook did not return to rest, usually because a trim failed and the hook jammed in thread, or a Velcro (thread holder) bar is blocking it.Remove the cover between the middle heads, find the cylindrical sensor with blue tips, and move the black arm back in front of the sensor until its amber/red light comes on. If the arm will not move, check every head for a hook caught in thread or hitting the Velcro bar.CHT2, CHSRicoma support "CHT/CHS: Hook Not In Position / 256 Hook Error"
257Cutter / Trim Blade ErrorA trim blade did not retract, normally because one head has a birdnest or thread packed around the blade.At the right rear under the machine, line the black arm up with the blue-tipped sensor until its light comes on. If it will not move, pull all needle plates and clear the thread blocking the blades.CHT2, CHSRicoma support "CHT/CHS: Not Cutting or Trimming / 257 Error"
—Hook not in positionThe hook module is not resting where its sensor expects, usually after a trim that did not cut and pulled the hook.Remove the left side body panel (six screws under caps). Push the black gear so its foot sits in the middle of the blue sensor's U-shaped slot. Press trim to test. Slightly tighten top tension on the needle that failed to trim.EM-1010 and other single headsRicoma support "Hook Not in Position" and "EM-1010: Hook Not In Position"
—Trim not in position / Trimming is not in positionThe trim linkage did not return so its proximity switch is not made, or the switch is faulty.Remove the needle plate, clear thread from the blade area and press trim to see if the blades move. If not, check the rod to the blades is connected (on MT/TC also the bar at the back of the arm). If they move, adjust the blade so only its tip shows. A dead switch needs replacing.All single heads, MTRicoma support "Trim not in position"; RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—Color change timeout / Over time for color changingThe color change motor could not finish moving to the next needle in time: a dropped take-up lever, a seized mechanism, or a cable fault.Set the machine to exactly 100 degrees (1-2 full turns of the wheel), then check all take-up levers are level. Push a dropped lever back up; a lever sitting high needs the take-up lever adjustment. If it still grinds, check the color change cable and call service.AllRicoma support "Color Change Timeout" (MT, TC, SWD, Swift, EM-1010, Creator, Marquee); 7S operation manual
—Emergency stopThe red emergency stop switch is pressed in (often from shipping).Twist the button clockwise in the arrow direction until it pops out by itself. Do not pull it. On 7S panels it is top right; on 8S panels bottom left.AllRicoma support "Emergency Stop Error"; MT-1502 quick start manual
—Thread break / T.BreakThe upper thread sensor stopped the machine, or the bobbin ran out (both show as a thread break).If the top thread is still attached to the fabric, change the bobbin. Otherwise rethread from the break, leave about 1 inch on the holding spring, back the design up 10-12 stitches and restart.AllMT-1502 and CHT2 quick start manuals
—No stitchThe stitch detection wheel is out of position or the detection board failed, so the machine sees no stitch forming.Check the sensing wheel and its flag are seated and clean it with compressed air. If it persists the detection board needs replacing.TC 7S, EM-1010RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual; EM-1010 owner's manual
—XY motor driver errorThe X/Y driver tripped on over-voltage or over-current, or failed.Power off, check the driver supply, power on. If it returns, the driver needs replacing by a technician. Check the hoop is not jammed first.TC 7S, EM-1010RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—Tinsel needle errorThe sequin (tinsel) needle setting does not match the color sequence.Re-enter the color change sequence so the sequin needle is set correctly.TC 7S, EM-1010RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—+X limit errorThe frame reached the right-hand software limit.Move the hoop back the other way with the frame keys, re-trace the design, and pick a bigger hoop or re-centre the design.TC 7S, EM-1010, MTRCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—-X limit errorThe frame reached the left-hand limit.Move the hoop in the opposite direction, re-trace, re-centre or use a larger hoop.TC 7S, EM-1010, MTRCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—+Y limit errorThe frame reached the back limit.Move the hoop in the opposite direction; for caps check the cap hoop Y size parameter.TC 7S, EM-1010, MTRCM-1501TC-7S operation manual
—-Y limit errorThe frame reached the front limit.Move the hoop in the opposite direction and re-trace before sewing.TC 7S, EM-1010, MTRCM-1501TC-7S operation manual

Ricoma problems and fixes

Fixes are in order — cheapest and most likely first. Filter by symptom or type what you see.

Main axis not at 100 keeps coming backHook timingBirdnestMotors

Likely causes: degree wheel not exactly at 100, take-up lever out of line, needle hit the hoop, thread wrapped in the hook

  1. Clear the message, confirm a needle number shows, and press the 100-degree key.
  2. Power off and turn the degree wheel by hand 2-3 full turns, stopping exactly on the 100 mark in the sight window.
  3. Check all take-up levers are at the same height and push any dropped lever back up.
  4. If the wheel is stiff, remove the bobbin case and clear thread from the rotary hook before turning again.

Call a technician if: the wheel will not turn after the hook is clear, or the error returns on every start (encoder or hook timing).

Why birdnests happen. What a nest is, the usual causes in order, and how to clear one safely.

Link to this fix

False thread breaks (machine stops but thread is fine)SensorsThread breaks

Likely causes: thread not wrapped on the sensor wheel, dusty encoder, sensor flag out of place, sensitivity setting

  1. Note whether it happens on one needle or all. On one needle, rethread that needle's path and make sure the thread turns the sensor wheel while sewing.
  2. On TC/SWD/MT, move to needle 14, remove the rear cover and check the sensor and wheel sit inside the black flag. Do not touch the wheel.
  3. Blow dust out of the sensor with compressed air.
  4. As a test only, set Thread Broken Sensitivity (EMB Param > EMB Param2) to 0 / No check and run. If it now sews, the sensor needs service.

Call a technician if: the sensor is damaged or the flag is bent. Do not leave the sensor turned off in production.

Upper thread path. Every guide from the cone to the needle eye — the fix for most breaks and nests.

Link to this fix

Upper thread breaking or shreddingThread breaksNeedleTension

Likely causes: needle backwards or bent, missed tension disc or guide, burr in needle plate hole, old thread, tension too tight

  1. Replace the needle with a DBxK5, long groove facing front, pushed all the way up.
  2. Rethread the whole path and make sure the thread sits behind the pin between the tension discs and through the take-up lever.
  3. Check the needle plate hole is smooth; replace the plate if it has a groove.
  4. Try fresh thread; if lots of thread spills off the spool at once, the spool is the problem.
  5. Run Ricoma's tension test file on two layers of cutaway and balance top and bobbin tension.

Call a technician if: it shreds on every needle with a new needle and good thread (hook timing).

Upper thread path. Every guide from the cone to the needle eye — the fix for most breaks and nests.

Link to this fix

Bird nesting under the plateBirdnestTensionBobbin

Likely causes: top thread outside the tension discs, top tension too loose, bobbin case not clicked in, loose hooping

  1. Find out whether it is one needle or all.
  2. Rethread with the thread through the take-up lever, between the tension plates and behind the tension pin.
  3. Tighten top tension on the affected needle first, then check bobbin tension.
  4. Push the bobbin case in until it clicks.
  5. Rehoop drum-tight with the right backing.

Call a technician if: nests continue on all needles after the above.

Why birdnests happen. What a nest is, the usual causes in order, and how to clear one safely.

Link to this fix

Bobbin thread breaks or bobbin shows on topBobbinTension

Likely causes: bobbin tension too tight or uneven, damaged bobbin case spring, scratched sewing arm, Length after trim too low

  1. Check bobbin tension and set it so the case drops slowly when held by the thread.
  2. Replace a bobbin case with a bent spring or nicked edge.
  3. In Emb Param, check the Length setting after Trim is not set too low.
  4. Look for scratches on the sewing arm around the hook and polish or replace.

Call a technician if: the hook raceway is damaged.

The I-test for tension. Read the back of a satin column to balance top and bobbin tension.

Link to this fix

Needles breaking on flatsNeedleHook timingHoop

Likely causes: bent needle, needle in wrong, tension too high, presser foot too high, poor hooping, timing off, too fast

  1. Use 75/11 or 80/12 DBxK5 needles, scarf to the back, fully seated.
  2. Rebalance top and bobbin tension.
  3. Lower the presser foot so it holds the fabric as the needle enters.
  4. Hoop firmly with the right stabilizer.
  5. Slow the machine down.

Call a technician if: needles keep hitting the hook (hook timing per the EM, TC/SWD or MT/CHT2 timing guide).

Needle orientation. Long groove to the front, scarf to the hook, pushed fully up.

Link to this fix

Needles breaking on capsNeedleCapsSpeed

Likely causes: too fast, cap bouncing, wrong needle, design not made for caps, frame limit wrong

  1. Drop speed to about 450-600 spm on structured caps.
  2. Lower the cap driver closer to the sewing arm and lower the presser foot.
  3. Use 80/12 titanium DBxK5 needles.
  4. Sew a design that is digitized centre-out and bottom-up for caps.
  5. Set the cap hoop Y size (85 mm on most models, 80 mm on CHT/CHS) so the machine stops before hitting the frame.

Call a technician if: the cap driver is bent or the needle hits metal on the frame.

Needle orientation. Long groove to the front, scarf to the hook, pushed fully up.

Link to this fix

Not trimming / long tailsTrimmerThread breaks

Likely causes: thread packed around blades, blade misadjusted, feed length or length-after-trim too long, picker or Velcro bar not catching

  1. Remove the needle plate, clean around the blades and press trim to watch them move.
  2. Adjust the blade so only its tip shows.
  3. Reduce the Length After Trim parameter on the panel.
  4. Check the Velcro bar, spring lever and picker (run the Pick Test).

Call a technician if: the blade linkage is disconnected or the trim switch is faulty.

Upper thread path. Every guide from the cone to the needle eye — the fix for most breaks and nests.

Link to this fix

Color change grinding / can't move needlesColour changeMotorsNoise

Likely causes: shaft not at 100, take-up lever popped down or up, seized color change parts

  1. Turn the wheel to exactly 100 degrees.
  2. Look along the take-up levers and reset any that are out of line.
  3. Retry the color change.

Call a technician if: it still grinds with all levers level (take-up lever adjustment or color change motor).

Hook timing. What correct hook-to-needle timing and clearance look like.

Link to this fix

Needle stays down at 100 degreesNeedleSensors

Likely causes: shaft not exactly at 100, needle-release solenoid misadjusted or dead

  1. Turn the wheel 1-2 full turns, stop precisely at 100 and press the 100-degree button.
  2. On MT, move to needle 15 and watch the solenoid on the left of the head while pressing the 100-degree button.
  3. If it moves, loosen its two screws with a 3 mm Allen key and slide it until the needle releases, then tighten.

Call a technician if: the solenoid does not move at all (replace it).

Upper thread path. Every guide from the cone to the needle eye — the fix for most breaks and nests.

Link to this fix

Pantograph runs to one side and grindsFrame / pantographSensorsNoise

Likely causes: X sensor flag not passing through the sensor slot, dirty sensor

  1. Power off and remove the pantograph cover.
  2. Move the pantograph by hand and check the metal flag passes into the sensor's black slot.
  3. Clean the sensor with compressed air or 70%+ isopropyl alcohol.

Call a technician if: the sensor is broken or loose.

Upper thread path. Every guide from the cone to the needle eye — the fix for most breaks and nests.

Link to this fix

Design shifts / loses registrationRegistrationFrame / pantographHoop

Likely causes: loose hooping, wrong backing, too fast, garment catching, loose arms, belt or sensor problem

  1. Rehoop with suitable backing and make sure nothing can snag the garment.
  2. Slow down and check the hoop arms are straight and tight.
  3. With power off the pantograph should move smoothly by hand; with power on it should hold.
  4. Random shifts usually point to electrical faults; consistent shifts point to mechanical ones such as belt tension.

Call a technician if: shifts continue after the X/Y belt adjustment.

Hooping layers. Firm, flat and square — the root of most puckering and registration faults.

Link to this fix

Machine will not read the USB stickUSBDesign files

Likely causes: large or wrongly formatted stick, locked embroidery status, loose panel cable

  1. Use a stick of 16 GB or smaller, reformatted as FAT32, with only design files on it.
  2. Save designs as Ricoma/Tajima DST.
  3. Unlock the embroidery status (lock icon) before loading a new design.
  4. Check the wiring behind the panel back cover is seated.

Call a technician if: no stick is ever recognised (panel main board).

Link to this fix

Machine is noisyNoiseOiling

Likely causes: dry hook, dry reciprocator or rails

  1. Oil the hook and needle bars per the schedule below.
  2. Grease the T-bar/head rail and needle selector bearings.
  3. If it is still noisy, let the oil settle for 24 hours before running again.

Call a technician if: noise continues after full lubrication.

Hook timing. What correct hook-to-needle timing and clearance look like.

Link to this fix

Diagrams and photos

Tap any picture to enlarge it. Diagrams are generic — your machine's threading chart and manual take priority.

Illustration of a typical Ricoma single-head 15-needle machine on its stand. Drawn for EasyDigitizer — not a product photo.
A long multi-head embroidery machine in a garment factory, with a row of heads, their thread stands and finished sports jerseys. Photo: USAID Pakistan, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
A multi-head machine embroidering gold motifs onto a long length of fabric, one design per head. Photo: Srini297, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cones of embroidery thread standing on the thread stand of a multi-head machine. Photo: Lizzy Shaanan (ליזי שאנן), via PikiWiki - Israel, CC BY 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
A multi-needle embroidery head stitching on a garment held in a blue tubular hoop. Photo: Usien, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Old engraving of a rotary hook with its bobbin case and bobbin. The hook spins and catches the top thread to form each stitch. Photo: Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The rotary hook (circled in red) behind the front access door of a home machine, with the bobbin case fitted. Photo: Jim Thomas, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Five-minute diagnosis. Where to start when the machine stops or sews badly.
Upper thread path. Every guide from the cone to the needle eye — the fix for most breaks and nests.
Why birdnests happen. What a nest is, the usual causes in order, and how to clear one safely.
The I-test for tension. Read the back of a satin column to balance top and bobbin tension.
Bobbin drop test. Set bobbin tension before you touch the top tension.
Needle orientation. Long groove to the front, scarf to the hook, pushed fully up.
Hook timing. What correct hook-to-needle timing and clearance look like.
Hooping layers. Firm, flat and square — the root of most puckering and registration faults.
Caps: frame and sequence. Cap frame set-up, centre-out sewing and safe sew height.
Cleaning and oiling points. Daily and weekly care points on a multi-needle head.

Maintenance schedule

IntervalTaskNotes
Start of every dayOil the rotary hook and the port behind the needle plateRemove the bobbin case. On TC/SWD put 3-5 drops at 11 o'clock and a few at 1 o'clock on the hook.
Every 3-4 hours of runningRe-oil the hookRicoma's general rule is daily plus every 4 hours of continuous use.
Daily (TC/SWD)Oil all 15 needle-bar springs and the main shaft oil pointAbout 3 drops each; keep the felt pad under the needle bars wet.
Every other day (TC/SWD)Oil the reciprocator holes and T-bars2-3 drops per hole; T-bars whenever they look dry.
WeeklyRemove the needle plate and clean lint from the blades; oil the blades, hook and needle barsLint around the knife causes trim failures. Clean the bobbin case slit with a card, not your breath.
Monthly (EM-1010)Oil the T-bar and grease the head rail and needle-selector bearings at needle 1 and needle 10Use white lithium grease.
As needed (TC/SWD)Grease the head rail at needles 1 and 15, the color change wheel and pegsGrease should look white, not dark or dry.
YearlyRemove covers and oil bearings, pulleys and moving partsEM-1010 schedule; use a technician if unsure.
After oilingSew a test swatchStops excess oil staining garments.

Settings that cause stitch problems

  • Thread Broken Sensitivity (EMB Param > EMB Param2): too sensitive gives false stops; 0 / No check turns detection off. Use 0 only as a test.
  • Length After Trim and feed length: too long leaves tails on the front; too low causes bobbin and top thread to pull out after trims.
  • Cap hoop Y size: Ricoma tells cap users to set it to 85 mm (80 mm on CHT/CHS). Too small and the design trips the limit; too large and the needle can hit the cap frame.
  • Stop Frame of Moving / beyond-hoop setting: controls whether the frame stops at the hoop edge. Turned off, an oversize design can drive into the frame.
  • Speed: structured caps and dense designs need lower speed (Ricoma suggests 450-600 spm on caps). Running flat-out causes needle breaks and registration loss.
  • Filter 0 Stitch Data: decides whether zero-length stitches are skipped. Piles of zero-length stitches in a file stack thread in one hole, so leave filtering on unless a design needs them.
  • Embroidery status lock: when locked, the panel will not load a new design, which looks like a USB fault.
  • Needle size: the machines are timed for 75/11 and 80/12. Other sizes may need hook timing changes.

Official manuals, FAQs and support

Straight from Ricoma. Links open the maker's own site.

Ricoma Help CenterRicoma's searchable article base for every machine linesupport.ricoma.com MT: No Needle Errorclearing a needle position error with the red knobsupport.ricoma.com Main Axis not at 100 / No Needle Error Fix on the EM-1010degree wheel procedure for the EM-1010support.ricoma.com CHT/CHS: No Needle / 241 Needle Errorfixing error 241support.ricoma.com CHT/CHS: Hook Not In Position / 256 Hook Errorfixing error 256support.ricoma.com CHT/CHS: Not Cutting or Trimming / 257 Errorfixing error 257support.ricoma.com Why Do I Keep Getting a "Hook Not in Position" Message?hook sensor alignmentsupport.ricoma.com Trim not in position errorblade checkssupport.ricoma.com How To Fix A "Color Change Time Out" Error - MT seriestake-up lever checksupport.ricoma.com Emergency Stop Errorreleasing the e-stopsupport.ricoma.com False Thread Break (TC/SWD/MT)sensor and sensitivity checkssupport.ricoma.com Why Is My Machine Not Reading the Designs From My USB Drive?USB size and formatsupport.ricoma.com RCM-1501TC-7S operation manual, system errors list (ManualsLib copy)7S panel error and countermeasure tablemanualslib.com MT-1502 quick start manual, common errors (ManualsLib copy)e-stop, needle, main axis and thread break proceduresmanualslib.com

Frequently asked questions

What does "Main axis not at 100" mean on a Ricoma?

The main shaft must rest at 100 degrees to start and stop a stitch, and the machine has found it somewhere else. Press the 100-degree key first; if that fails, turn the degree wheel by hand to 100 with the power off. A recurring error usually means thread is wrapped in the hook or a take-up lever has dropped.

How do I fix a Ricoma "No needle" error?

The head is sitting between two needles. Clear the message, then slowly turn the red color change knob on the right of the head until the panel shows a needle number instead of 0. On CHT2 multi-heads use a wrench on the color change gear under the panel.

What are Ricoma errors 241, 256 and 257?

They are CHT2/CHS multi-head codes. 241 is a needle position error, 256 means a hook did not return, and 257 means a trim blade did not retract. For 256 and 257, realign the black arm on the blue-tipped sensor under the machine and clear any thread from the heads.

Why does my Ricoma stop for a thread break when the thread is not broken?

That is a false thread break. Check the thread wraps the sensor wheel, clean the sensor with compressed air, and confirm the wheel sits in its flag. Turning Thread Broken Sensitivity to 0 is a test, not a fix.

What file format does a Ricoma embroidery machine use?

Ricoma tells customers to save from Chroma as "Ricoma/Tajima (DST)". Keep an editable copy in Chroma's own format, because DST cannot be re-edited cleanly.

How often should I oil a Ricoma embroidery machine?

Oil the rotary hook at the start of every day and again every 3-4 hours of running. Needle bars and reciprocator points are daily or every other day depending on model, and rails get white lithium grease when they look dry.

Why does my Ricoma not read my USB stick?

Large or exFAT/NTFS sticks often fail. Use 16 GB or less formatted FAT32, and unlock the embroidery status icon before loading a new design.

Machine's fine — but the design still sews badly?

Density, underlay, pull compensation and stitch order cause more "machine problems" than machines do. EasyDigitizer builds production-ready files for Ricoma in your browser.

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